A Week in Slovenia
All ten arrived at Stansted on time and in one piece as planned apart from a large holdall that was falling apart. Fortunately Lesley had a large luggage strap which she and Helen used to hold it together sufficiently for it to travel.
The flight left on time and arrived slightly ahead of schedule at Lublijana, but here there was a slight problem: there was no minibus to meet us. On phoning our hotel Ruth found out that the taxi company had forgotten all about the booking! Fortunately another very helpful minibus driver saw our plight and came to our rescue, so Ruth immediately booked him for the return journey!
The hotel was excellent: very nice rooms, good food, friendly and very helpful staff and a lovely swimming pool which several people used on a regular morning basis, but which was most appreciated after a long hot walk
Sunday. Our first day's walking took us around beautiful Lake Bohinj, through grassy meadows and past secluded little beaches. At the eastern end of the lake we then passed charming holiday cottages before climbing up the wooded slopes and lots of steps to the observation hut overlooking the Savica Waterfall which emerges out of the rocks from underground tunnels and cascades 78 metres into a beautiful green pool.
On retracing our steps we stopped at the Slap Savica snack bar for a welcome drink and icecream, and the chance to taste and purchase two local cheeses, one of which was very nice, the other rather strong and pungent and certainly an acquired taste.
On returning to the lake we headed home via the Hunters' Path through dense woodland with no views of the lake which made it seem endless, but a great day none the less.
The flight left on time and arrived slightly ahead of schedule at Lublijana, but here there was a slight problem: there was no minibus to meet us. On phoning our hotel Ruth found out that the taxi company had forgotten all about the booking! Fortunately another very helpful minibus driver saw our plight and came to our rescue, so Ruth immediately booked him for the return journey!
The hotel was excellent: very nice rooms, good food, friendly and very helpful staff and a lovely swimming pool which several people used on a regular morning basis, but which was most appreciated after a long hot walk
Sunday. Our first day's walking took us around beautiful Lake Bohinj, through grassy meadows and past secluded little beaches. At the eastern end of the lake we then passed charming holiday cottages before climbing up the wooded slopes and lots of steps to the observation hut overlooking the Savica Waterfall which emerges out of the rocks from underground tunnels and cascades 78 metres into a beautiful green pool.
On retracing our steps we stopped at the Slap Savica snack bar for a welcome drink and icecream, and the chance to taste and purchase two local cheeses, one of which was very nice, the other rather strong and pungent and certainly an acquired taste.
On returning to the lake we headed home via the Hunters' Path through dense woodland with no views of the lake which made it seem endless, but a great day none the less.
The Alpine cheese seller. Ruth on the track to Vogel. Assessing the route map at Vogel
Monday. We took the bus from outside the hotel at 9.00 o'clock on this lovely sunny morning heading for the cable car that would take us up to the start of our trek towards Vogel which at 1992 m is the highest mountain in the Bohinj area.
Ten of us went up in the cable car but only five continued towards Vogel. The first part of the path followed the ski track, with very steep descents and ascents on slippery scree. Soon, however, we found a rock marked 'Vogel 2 hours' and we took this path which snaked over meadows full of alpine wildflowers of all colours and bees and butterflies everywhere.
The path began to climb higher and we could see large patches of snow in the gulleys below us. Two in the party decided to head down the mountain while three of us continued up. After an hour's walk we saw a craggy rock ahead and above us with a large overhang and to the right of this we saw the summit of Vogel. We could see a narrow path skirting along the side of the mountain which would take us to the top. Before we could get onto this path we had to scramble up and around a corner of the rock with not much to hold on to and not much foothold. This proved to be the most difficult part of the climb but safely past this area we followed the narrow path which skirted the mountain side with wonderful views over the valley below. Very soon the path wound very steeply upwards and the last 30 minutes was quite a hard scramble until we finally reached the summit of Vogel from where we had a 360o view over the surrounding landscape, and we could see Triglav, at 2864 m the highest mountain in Slovenia, in the distance. After admiring the view, we headed back down the mountain and, safely past the tricky corner, sat down for our lunch and a well-earned rest.
We decided to take a slightly different route back but the markings were not very clear and at one point we took the wrong turning and found that the track suddenly ended in a steep gorge. We retraced our steps and soon found the right path heading down the valley. We could see the ski lift way ahead but before we reached it we had to climb a very long steep scree slope which, with the hot sun beating down and after a long day's walking was not very easy. We were enormously relieved to see that the ski lift was operating so we jumped on it and had a very welcome ride down to the cable car cutting out a very long walk down and then up again. We caught the cable car and decided to take the bus but missed it so we headed down to the lake where luckily the boat was waiting and we enjoyed the 30 minute trip across this lovely stretch of clear turquoise water teaming with fish. It was a perfect ending to a very exciting day in the mountains. Sonja
Tuesday. Another warm day for our trip to Bled, a resort town that was once the home of the Yugoslavian royal family. This was a more civilised walk on tarmac paths around the emerald lake, but none the less very beautiful. It was overlooked by the castle situated on a large outcrop of rock and perched right on the edge of a sheer cliff. This was well worth the steep climb for the views across the lake towards Bled Island and the picturesque 9th century Church of the Assumption. One could get to the island on a traditional wooden row barge called pletna but we opted to sit and rest under the trees before finding a local cafe and indulging in the local speciality - a vanilla cream pastry called kremma rezina - yummy - followed by the bus ride home.
Wednesday. After the strenuous day some had had on Tuesday we thought we would do something a little less taxing, so headed past the church towards Star Fuzina then turned right over a flower lined bridge and walked along the valley beside the Sava Bohinjk river, through flower meadows and hay fields and small farming communities with their traditional hayracks for drying the hay before it was stored in numerous barns dotted throughout the valley.
We had hoped to pick up a path between the steep wooded slopes of Rudnic and Savnica but we reached the main road to Bled without finding one. We obviously didn't want to walk along a busy road so branched off left onto a minor one and then picked up a track to the left which was heading in the right direction. This looked promising at first but it then turned into a steep boulder strewn river bed which in turn became an even steeper forest track. We still persevered ever upwards. By now the track was virtually non existant due to lots of fallen trees and lying wood, but just very occasionally we came upon red markers, so on we went.
Eventually we reached the top of what turned out to be Savnica which had not been the original plan. However here we picked up more waymarks so we stopped for lunch to revive and review the situation. Sonja did a recce and found a well marked trail going down yet another steep slope, and low and behold we came out almost exactly where we had intended in the first place!
Bliss! Here we found a cattle trough with cold clear running water, a welcome relief from the heat. Needless to say we headed for the nearest cafe in Srednja Vas for icecreams, coffees and a bowl of wild strawberries.
The rest of the walk back to the hotel was plain sailing through the tradional village of Stara Fuzina.
Ten of us went up in the cable car but only five continued towards Vogel. The first part of the path followed the ski track, with very steep descents and ascents on slippery scree. Soon, however, we found a rock marked 'Vogel 2 hours' and we took this path which snaked over meadows full of alpine wildflowers of all colours and bees and butterflies everywhere.
The path began to climb higher and we could see large patches of snow in the gulleys below us. Two in the party decided to head down the mountain while three of us continued up. After an hour's walk we saw a craggy rock ahead and above us with a large overhang and to the right of this we saw the summit of Vogel. We could see a narrow path skirting along the side of the mountain which would take us to the top. Before we could get onto this path we had to scramble up and around a corner of the rock with not much to hold on to and not much foothold. This proved to be the most difficult part of the climb but safely past this area we followed the narrow path which skirted the mountain side with wonderful views over the valley below. Very soon the path wound very steeply upwards and the last 30 minutes was quite a hard scramble until we finally reached the summit of Vogel from where we had a 360o view over the surrounding landscape, and we could see Triglav, at 2864 m the highest mountain in Slovenia, in the distance. After admiring the view, we headed back down the mountain and, safely past the tricky corner, sat down for our lunch and a well-earned rest.
We decided to take a slightly different route back but the markings were not very clear and at one point we took the wrong turning and found that the track suddenly ended in a steep gorge. We retraced our steps and soon found the right path heading down the valley. We could see the ski lift way ahead but before we reached it we had to climb a very long steep scree slope which, with the hot sun beating down and after a long day's walking was not very easy. We were enormously relieved to see that the ski lift was operating so we jumped on it and had a very welcome ride down to the cable car cutting out a very long walk down and then up again. We caught the cable car and decided to take the bus but missed it so we headed down to the lake where luckily the boat was waiting and we enjoyed the 30 minute trip across this lovely stretch of clear turquoise water teaming with fish. It was a perfect ending to a very exciting day in the mountains. Sonja
Tuesday. Another warm day for our trip to Bled, a resort town that was once the home of the Yugoslavian royal family. This was a more civilised walk on tarmac paths around the emerald lake, but none the less very beautiful. It was overlooked by the castle situated on a large outcrop of rock and perched right on the edge of a sheer cliff. This was well worth the steep climb for the views across the lake towards Bled Island and the picturesque 9th century Church of the Assumption. One could get to the island on a traditional wooden row barge called pletna but we opted to sit and rest under the trees before finding a local cafe and indulging in the local speciality - a vanilla cream pastry called kremma rezina - yummy - followed by the bus ride home.
Wednesday. After the strenuous day some had had on Tuesday we thought we would do something a little less taxing, so headed past the church towards Star Fuzina then turned right over a flower lined bridge and walked along the valley beside the Sava Bohinjk river, through flower meadows and hay fields and small farming communities with their traditional hayracks for drying the hay before it was stored in numerous barns dotted throughout the valley.
We had hoped to pick up a path between the steep wooded slopes of Rudnic and Savnica but we reached the main road to Bled without finding one. We obviously didn't want to walk along a busy road so branched off left onto a minor one and then picked up a track to the left which was heading in the right direction. This looked promising at first but it then turned into a steep boulder strewn river bed which in turn became an even steeper forest track. We still persevered ever upwards. By now the track was virtually non existant due to lots of fallen trees and lying wood, but just very occasionally we came upon red markers, so on we went.
Eventually we reached the top of what turned out to be Savnica which had not been the original plan. However here we picked up more waymarks so we stopped for lunch to revive and review the situation. Sonja did a recce and found a well marked trail going down yet another steep slope, and low and behold we came out almost exactly where we had intended in the first place!
Bliss! Here we found a cattle trough with cold clear running water, a welcome relief from the heat. Needless to say we headed for the nearest cafe in Srednja Vas for icecreams, coffees and a bowl of wild strawberries.
The rest of the walk back to the hotel was plain sailing through the tradional village of Stara Fuzina.
Rowing on the lake. Taking tea in the shade. Anne points out the day's route to Mavis
Bryan's new hat
Thursday. A free day and again hot. Some walked, some sat by the lake and some went on the water in rowing boats or canoes.
Friday. Six set out to walk alongside the deep Korita gorge carved out by the River Mostnica. At the Devils Bridge the gorge dropped away beneath us to an incredible depth. Continuing upwards through wild flower meadows and beech woods we refreshed ourselves from the blazing sun beside the deep rock pools of crystal clear turquoise water. All around us were views of the towering mountain peaks. The steep three and a half hour trek led us to a spectacular waterfall at the head of the gorge, where we sat to enjoy our picnic lunch in the air cooled by the spray.
At the Koca Na Vojah cafe, a welcome stop en route for a refreshing drink, we bought a green felt mountain hat which we decided would be approriate headgear for Bryan to reward him for his patience and good humour as the only male in our party. Later that evening he was brave enough to wear it - in public!!
Returning downwards via the pretty village of Stara Fuzina we called in to the Museum of Alpine Dairy farming to see agricultural tools and photographs of a bygone era of cheese making in the area.
By mid afternoon the high humidity and heat were beginning to take their toll and several of us were relieved to return to the hotel for a welcome dip in the pool. Carol and Ann
Saturday. Our day of departure, but we couldn't just hang about till 4 o'clock so Ruth offered to lead another walk, but only Sonja came to climb Rudnica. The first viewpoint was Pec which a Slovene couple explained meant oven, an odd name but a wonderful view of the lake, 'our' hotel and the church. Then eastward through the forest eventually reaching meadows full of flowers. On the way up to another viewpoint overlooking the valley leading to Bohinj a beautiful muntjack deer crossed our path.After a steep descent we reached the river where people were bathing and rafting: how we envied them as we were sweating profusely in 30 degree heat.
As we all climbed into the taxi to leave the heavens opened: we had been so lucky with the weather. Ruth
Friday. Six set out to walk alongside the deep Korita gorge carved out by the River Mostnica. At the Devils Bridge the gorge dropped away beneath us to an incredible depth. Continuing upwards through wild flower meadows and beech woods we refreshed ourselves from the blazing sun beside the deep rock pools of crystal clear turquoise water. All around us were views of the towering mountain peaks. The steep three and a half hour trek led us to a spectacular waterfall at the head of the gorge, where we sat to enjoy our picnic lunch in the air cooled by the spray.
At the Koca Na Vojah cafe, a welcome stop en route for a refreshing drink, we bought a green felt mountain hat which we decided would be approriate headgear for Bryan to reward him for his patience and good humour as the only male in our party. Later that evening he was brave enough to wear it - in public!!
Returning downwards via the pretty village of Stara Fuzina we called in to the Museum of Alpine Dairy farming to see agricultural tools and photographs of a bygone era of cheese making in the area.
By mid afternoon the high humidity and heat were beginning to take their toll and several of us were relieved to return to the hotel for a welcome dip in the pool. Carol and Ann
Saturday. Our day of departure, but we couldn't just hang about till 4 o'clock so Ruth offered to lead another walk, but only Sonja came to climb Rudnica. The first viewpoint was Pec which a Slovene couple explained meant oven, an odd name but a wonderful view of the lake, 'our' hotel and the church. Then eastward through the forest eventually reaching meadows full of flowers. On the way up to another viewpoint overlooking the valley leading to Bohinj a beautiful muntjack deer crossed our path.After a steep descent we reached the river where people were bathing and rafting: how we envied them as we were sweating profusely in 30 degree heat.
As we all climbed into the taxi to leave the heavens opened: we had been so lucky with the weather. Ruth
