Herriot Way 2
Due to a problem between Sherpa and the hotel, our second set off from Reeth, instead of Grinton (it was a good job Peter had thought to book an evening meal for us or the problem might not have been noticed until we all turned up at the hotel expecting accommodation!).
Peter and Marion were unable to join us because of his back problem (inflammation of an old injury) hence Ray took over as leader. This job was made relatively easy because of all the excellent planning and reconnaissance work undertaken by both Mike and Peter, both of whom deserve our thanks and congratulations.
Day 1: Reeth to Aysgarth
Eight of us embarked on the first day's walk in beautiful spring sunshine, initially dropping down to the River Swale which we crossed using the 'New Swing Bridge' (actually a suspension bridge built to replace an earlier one washed away by a major storm) then climbing up through the heather to High Harker Hill. Our first stop was at a large shooting hut, equipped with table and chairs; unfortunately, though, it was too early to avail ourselves of the facilities for a lunch break. The views over Swaledale were quite superb, especially given the blue skies, and the relatively easy walking. Lunch was eaten beside the Apedale Beck at Dent's Houses, two buildings built up on the moors to support the sheep pens and grouse butts. These were comparatively luxurious, given the location, providing toilet facilities, table, chairs and even a sofa!
Peter and Marion were unable to join us because of his back problem (inflammation of an old injury) hence Ray took over as leader. This job was made relatively easy because of all the excellent planning and reconnaissance work undertaken by both Mike and Peter, both of whom deserve our thanks and congratulations.
Day 1: Reeth to Aysgarth
Eight of us embarked on the first day's walk in beautiful spring sunshine, initially dropping down to the River Swale which we crossed using the 'New Swing Bridge' (actually a suspension bridge built to replace an earlier one washed away by a major storm) then climbing up through the heather to High Harker Hill. Our first stop was at a large shooting hut, equipped with table and chairs; unfortunately, though, it was too early to avail ourselves of the facilities for a lunch break. The views over Swaledale were quite superb, especially given the blue skies, and the relatively easy walking. Lunch was eaten beside the Apedale Beck at Dent's Houses, two buildings built up on the moors to support the sheep pens and grouse butts. These were comparatively luxurious, given the location, providing toilet facilities, table, chairs and even a sofa!
Leaving the moors behind us, the walk took us down into pastureland, past Bolton Castle (where we stopped for tea/coffee/hot chocolate) and eventually into a narrow green lane towards Aysgarth Falls. The Falls, a series of broad limestone steps over which the River Ure makes it way, were famously featured in the Kevin Costner film Robin Hood - Prince of Thieves. In spite of the recent spate of wet weather, the river was running relatively dry and, whilst reasonably dramatic, must be absolutely spectacular following a sustained period of rain.
Our final leg took us up the road into the village of Aysgarth where the group split up to find their overnight accommodation. Overall, the general consensus was that the day's walking had provided a very satisfactory introduction to the Herriot Way and we were all looking forward to another three days of the same. We all enjoyed a hearty meal at the George and Dragon pub before retiring to our various B&Bs for a well earned rest. Brian and Sandra
Day 2: Aysgarth to Hawes
This was a warm and sunny day with occasional showers but enduring memories of meadows full of buttercups, hillside glades covered in bluebells and the distinctive aroma of wild garlic.
The morning saw us walking along a river glinting with sunlight and we admired the prettiness of the Dales on each side. We came into Askrigg, famous as the setting of the popular All Creatures Great and Small series and the heart of the true Herriot country. We pondered this as we relaxed over coffee in a tearoom and after and a look around the village we moved on climbing into a delightful wooded area overlooking Mill Gill Force. After a picnic lunch leaning against the trees among the bluebells we dragged ourselves away to carry on.
During the day we slipped, some more easily than others, through no less than 61 'squeeze stiles' in the dry stone walls, as Brian and Sandra kept count. We walked up onto the dales and came down again into Hardraw where we fell into the Green Dragon for beer and cider. Some went to see the highest unbroken waterfall in England which is tucked away in the rear of the pub. Then it was a shortish downhill jaunt into Hawes where we settled into our accommodation right in the centre of town. We were well situated to visit all the local hostelries and the pleasurable 15 mile day had been taken prettily easily in our stride.
Day 3: Hawes to Keld
The omens were not auspicious as we met outside the Old Board Inn, promptly at 9.00 on Sunday morning. A violent burst of hail sprayed through the town causing an abrupt retreat to shelter and a quick donning of maximum wet weather gear. Moments later a rainbow appeared and buoyed by Yvonne's mantra 'It will be brighter later' we set out across the fields to the lovely Appersett viaduct, a continuation of the disused section of the Wensleydale Railway Line which we had first met on Day 2.
Our final leg took us up the road into the village of Aysgarth where the group split up to find their overnight accommodation. Overall, the general consensus was that the day's walking had provided a very satisfactory introduction to the Herriot Way and we were all looking forward to another three days of the same. We all enjoyed a hearty meal at the George and Dragon pub before retiring to our various B&Bs for a well earned rest. Brian and Sandra
Day 2: Aysgarth to Hawes
This was a warm and sunny day with occasional showers but enduring memories of meadows full of buttercups, hillside glades covered in bluebells and the distinctive aroma of wild garlic.
The morning saw us walking along a river glinting with sunlight and we admired the prettiness of the Dales on each side. We came into Askrigg, famous as the setting of the popular All Creatures Great and Small series and the heart of the true Herriot country. We pondered this as we relaxed over coffee in a tearoom and after and a look around the village we moved on climbing into a delightful wooded area overlooking Mill Gill Force. After a picnic lunch leaning against the trees among the bluebells we dragged ourselves away to carry on.
During the day we slipped, some more easily than others, through no less than 61 'squeeze stiles' in the dry stone walls, as Brian and Sandra kept count. We walked up onto the dales and came down again into Hardraw where we fell into the Green Dragon for beer and cider. Some went to see the highest unbroken waterfall in England which is tucked away in the rear of the pub. Then it was a shortish downhill jaunt into Hawes where we settled into our accommodation right in the centre of town. We were well situated to visit all the local hostelries and the pleasurable 15 mile day had been taken prettily easily in our stride.
Day 3: Hawes to Keld
The omens were not auspicious as we met outside the Old Board Inn, promptly at 9.00 on Sunday morning. A violent burst of hail sprayed through the town causing an abrupt retreat to shelter and a quick donning of maximum wet weather gear. Moments later a rainbow appeared and buoyed by Yvonne's mantra 'It will be brighter later' we set out across the fields to the lovely Appersett viaduct, a continuation of the disused section of the Wensleydale Railway Line which we had first met on Day 2.
The lowering bulk of Great Shunner Fell was within view but it was to be a long and steady climb before we reached the summit at 716 m. On the lower slopes we were walking into the face of stinging hail and rain but the effects grew less defoliating as the path turned gradually northwards. At times we huddled as penguins to give some relief from the elements. Blinding rain was interspersed with moments of sunshine which tinged the surrounding countryside in vividly contrasting colours.
We followed the Pennine Way for many miles and Brian told us that the great flagstones which formed the path across the sodden peat bogs came from disused industrial mills. Marks where machinery had cut into the stone were clearly visible. At times the path was a watercourse and glistened like a snail's trail. This part of West Yorkshire retains many obvious signs of its industrial past: spoil heaps and chimneys from lead, slate and coal mining are to be seen over all the fells.
Lunch was taken at the summit where a very welcome four-way cross, drystone wall shelter gave some protection from the high winds and provided a chance to get feeling back into frozen fingers. The descent was much brighter as Yvonne had predicted and we had superb views over Swaledale and Wensleydale. Following instructions from the previous group, we stopped at the Kearton Guest House in Thwaite for hot chocolate and coffee which we were able to enjoy in sunshine. It was hard to summon the energy to leave there for the final 3-mile trek to Keld. This took us over the top of Kisdon Fell and one final view behind us of our track across Shunner Fell and the last dousing of rain for the day.
The Butt House in Keld was a welcome sight indeed and we were warmly greeted and made comfortable after a very rewarding day. The Lodge where we ate that night was a meeting point for travellers along the Pennine Way, the Coast to Coast and the Herriot Way – a proper walkers hostelry to exchange tales before crashing to sleep. Jane and Jenny
We followed the Pennine Way for many miles and Brian told us that the great flagstones which formed the path across the sodden peat bogs came from disused industrial mills. Marks where machinery had cut into the stone were clearly visible. At times the path was a watercourse and glistened like a snail's trail. This part of West Yorkshire retains many obvious signs of its industrial past: spoil heaps and chimneys from lead, slate and coal mining are to be seen over all the fells.
Lunch was taken at the summit where a very welcome four-way cross, drystone wall shelter gave some protection from the high winds and provided a chance to get feeling back into frozen fingers. The descent was much brighter as Yvonne had predicted and we had superb views over Swaledale and Wensleydale. Following instructions from the previous group, we stopped at the Kearton Guest House in Thwaite for hot chocolate and coffee which we were able to enjoy in sunshine. It was hard to summon the energy to leave there for the final 3-mile trek to Keld. This took us over the top of Kisdon Fell and one final view behind us of our track across Shunner Fell and the last dousing of rain for the day.
The Butt House in Keld was a welcome sight indeed and we were warmly greeted and made comfortable after a very rewarding day. The Lodge where we ate that night was a meeting point for travellers along the Pennine Way, the Coast to Coast and the Herriot Way – a proper walkers hostelry to exchange tales before crashing to sleep. Jane and Jenny
Day 4: Keld to Reeth
The Met Office had issued an amber alert, severe weather warning, forecasting rain with gale force winds of up to 70 mph for Monday. It was a rainy morning but calm as we all set off in good spirits and made good time out of Keld, following the combined Herriot/Pennine Way down to the River Swale with good views of both Kisdon and Catrake Force waterfalls. Both were in spate following heavy rain the day before. From there we gradually gained height walking almost parallel with the river as we headed towards Swinner Gill with spectacular views across the river valley. Unfortunately we appeared to have missed the path up to Crackpot Hall and instead followed a lower path through the ruins of a lead mine to reach the Gill. We followed a precipitous path on the steeply sloping west side of the gill until we reached the head of the gorge.
At this point we could have taken a steep path north to rejoin the correct route, but we were suddenly hit by gale-force winds which stopped us in our tracks. We therefore made the decision, for the sake of safety, to take an alternative lower route which traversed a vertiginous path along the east side of the gill and dropped to join the Pennine Way.
We decided to walk from there along the river to Gunnerside where we would lunch and plan our route onwards to Reeth. We battled our way towards the village with gale-force winds and driving rain in our faces all the way.
Along our way we saw a sign to Gunnerside over the moors. Not wanting to be beaten we took this path climbing steadily up only to find a wild expanse of moorland with no defined path. Navigation was virtually impossible due to heavy driving rain and strong winds, which prevented the turning of the map within the map case. The leader decided we must return to the original track and continue to Gunnerside in relative safety. We thought it couldn't rain any harder, but as we reached the centre of the village it did! Stairrods spring to mind. This coincided with our arriving at a bus stop and -- revelations! -- a bus to Reeth was due in a few minutes. Along with an American couple of similar disposition, we agreed that walking further in such conditions was not desirable. Hence, when the bus arrived 10 drowned rats boarded the empty and immaculate vehicle and felt very guilty as we left it with damp seats and the floor covered in puddles.
We spent the rest of our 'walk' in the Black Bull in front of a roaring log fire, reviving ourselves with strong drinks and a spot of lunch whilst completing all the newspaper crosswords. That evening at the 'last supper' we agreed that the whole week's experience had been very enjoyable and memorable for lots of different reasons. (Footnote: Subsequent plotting of our route on Memory Map shows that we actually walked 10km and travelled the remaining 10km by bus.) Pat and Ray
The Met Office had issued an amber alert, severe weather warning, forecasting rain with gale force winds of up to 70 mph for Monday. It was a rainy morning but calm as we all set off in good spirits and made good time out of Keld, following the combined Herriot/Pennine Way down to the River Swale with good views of both Kisdon and Catrake Force waterfalls. Both were in spate following heavy rain the day before. From there we gradually gained height walking almost parallel with the river as we headed towards Swinner Gill with spectacular views across the river valley. Unfortunately we appeared to have missed the path up to Crackpot Hall and instead followed a lower path through the ruins of a lead mine to reach the Gill. We followed a precipitous path on the steeply sloping west side of the gill until we reached the head of the gorge.
At this point we could have taken a steep path north to rejoin the correct route, but we were suddenly hit by gale-force winds which stopped us in our tracks. We therefore made the decision, for the sake of safety, to take an alternative lower route which traversed a vertiginous path along the east side of the gill and dropped to join the Pennine Way.
We decided to walk from there along the river to Gunnerside where we would lunch and plan our route onwards to Reeth. We battled our way towards the village with gale-force winds and driving rain in our faces all the way.
Along our way we saw a sign to Gunnerside over the moors. Not wanting to be beaten we took this path climbing steadily up only to find a wild expanse of moorland with no defined path. Navigation was virtually impossible due to heavy driving rain and strong winds, which prevented the turning of the map within the map case. The leader decided we must return to the original track and continue to Gunnerside in relative safety. We thought it couldn't rain any harder, but as we reached the centre of the village it did! Stairrods spring to mind. This coincided with our arriving at a bus stop and -- revelations! -- a bus to Reeth was due in a few minutes. Along with an American couple of similar disposition, we agreed that walking further in such conditions was not desirable. Hence, when the bus arrived 10 drowned rats boarded the empty and immaculate vehicle and felt very guilty as we left it with damp seats and the floor covered in puddles.
We spent the rest of our 'walk' in the Black Bull in front of a roaring log fire, reviving ourselves with strong drinks and a spot of lunch whilst completing all the newspaper crosswords. That evening at the 'last supper' we agreed that the whole week's experience had been very enjoyable and memorable for lots of different reasons. (Footnote: Subsequent plotting of our route on Memory Map shows that we actually walked 10km and travelled the remaining 10km by bus.) Pat and Ray
