Herriot Way 1
We stayed at 13 different hotels, B&Bs and hostels in the four villages on the circuit during our six nights! Nine of the 12 participants completed the route.
Ginny, still recovering from surgery, was not ready for serious walking but could drive and met us each evening. Having a vehicle turned out to be useful when sadly Anna's knees gave out on Day 3 at Thwaite where, fortunately, a very nice café was conveniently situated. Ginny was able to assist in recovering Anna from Thwaite and then Paul's car from Grinton. Paul and Anna left Keld for St.Albans on the Monday morning wisely deciding against completing the circuit back to Grinton . The remainder of the group despite inclement weather were able to complete the Herriot Way in good spirits.
Day 1: Grinton to Aysgarth
After the usual hearty preparation in both the Bridge Inn and Grinton YHA the night before, the 11 of us set off with enthusiasm, despite the less than favourable weather. (In fact five of us had already done an arduous climb to get from the Bridge Inn to the start point.) It was already threatening to rain and the wind was up. Mike's Marvellous Map, otherwise known as 3Ms or his GPS, was having an off-day as no sooner had we started than we went off-course, going straight for Grinton Gill. An about-face and a trek through virgin heather and treacherous uneven ground underneath brought us back to the path. The wind remained very strong for most of the morning, making it not that pleasant, and only when we descended to a sheltered spot for coffee did we get out of the wind; but it tried to rain instead!
Ginny, still recovering from surgery, was not ready for serious walking but could drive and met us each evening. Having a vehicle turned out to be useful when sadly Anna's knees gave out on Day 3 at Thwaite where, fortunately, a very nice café was conveniently situated. Ginny was able to assist in recovering Anna from Thwaite and then Paul's car from Grinton. Paul and Anna left Keld for St.Albans on the Monday morning wisely deciding against completing the circuit back to Grinton . The remainder of the group despite inclement weather were able to complete the Herriot Way in good spirits.
Day 1: Grinton to Aysgarth
After the usual hearty preparation in both the Bridge Inn and Grinton YHA the night before, the 11 of us set off with enthusiasm, despite the less than favourable weather. (In fact five of us had already done an arduous climb to get from the Bridge Inn to the start point.) It was already threatening to rain and the wind was up. Mike's Marvellous Map, otherwise known as 3Ms or his GPS, was having an off-day as no sooner had we started than we went off-course, going straight for Grinton Gill. An about-face and a trek through virgin heather and treacherous uneven ground underneath brought us back to the path. The wind remained very strong for most of the morning, making it not that pleasant, and only when we descended to a sheltered spot for coffee did we get out of the wind; but it tried to rain instead!
At Bolton Castle for a lunch break, we had to share with three chickens who surrounded us and did not take no for an answer! Veronica enlightened us when we passed several moles impaled on a wire fence (a result of another of the 3Ms off-course wanderings after lunch), explaining that farmers paid mole catchers by the mole and this ensured that the latter did not try to get paid twice for the same mole.
After a nice diversion at Aysgarth Falls, to soak up the scene and to try in vain to walk along the river edge up-stream, we rested for a very enjoyable tea at the tea rooms on the bridge over the river Ure, before arriving at Aysgarth soon after 5.00pm, to be welcomed by cups of tea and cake at our appointed hostelries in the village. Paul
Day 2: Aysgarth to Hawes
Our second day's walking commenced at Aysgarth where we had all enjoyed comfortable B&Bs overnight. It proved a relaxing and scenic day's walking of about 13 miles. The weather was changeable at first with some light rain but this improved after mid afternoon. Descending into the valley of the lovely river Ure, Mike led us along the river bank for over five miles, crossing meadows of buttercups accompanied by the aroma of surrounding wild garlic.
After a nice diversion at Aysgarth Falls, to soak up the scene and to try in vain to walk along the river edge up-stream, we rested for a very enjoyable tea at the tea rooms on the bridge over the river Ure, before arriving at Aysgarth soon after 5.00pm, to be welcomed by cups of tea and cake at our appointed hostelries in the village. Paul
Day 2: Aysgarth to Hawes
Our second day's walking commenced at Aysgarth where we had all enjoyed comfortable B&Bs overnight. It proved a relaxing and scenic day's walking of about 13 miles. The weather was changeable at first with some light rain but this improved after mid afternoon. Descending into the valley of the lovely river Ure, Mike led us along the river bank for over five miles, crossing meadows of buttercups accompanied by the aroma of surrounding wild garlic.
A gentle climb took us to the village of Askrigg, with its surprisingly large church. A further gentle ascent through woodland and we found ourselves in fields of grazing sheep and cattle. No doubt of the season here as the fields were populated by lots of beautiful young lambs and calves. The views of the Ure valley were stunning.
One of the features of this particular walk was the number of squeeze styles within the dry stone walls -- over 80 in all across the day! -- and the most many of us had ever crossed in one day.
We carried on to the tiny village of Sedbusk. Lunch was taken by a small stream and later we enjoyed a welcome drink at the Green Dragon pub at Hardraw village, before arriving late afternoon in Hawes. Diane
Day 3: Hawes to Keld
Sunday started bright but with a scatter of rain and by the time we were walking it was distinctly dull. The day began in the pastures west of Hawes down to Widdale Beck with a view of our destination, Great Shunner Fell. Pretty much the last view of the day! From there we began the climb, the weather going downhill as we climbed up. There should be great views from this high point of the walk (and indeed of the trip) but we walked in rain and mist to the 'shelter' at the top of the fell, where we huddled in waterproofs, glad of a warm drink. It was a relief to trudge down to Thwaite, leaving the worst of the weather at the top and seeing the countryside again. The last section before lunch was a tiring walk on a rough stony path and we were all glad to reach Thwaite, though we didn't know how glad we would be!
One of the features of this particular walk was the number of squeeze styles within the dry stone walls -- over 80 in all across the day! -- and the most many of us had ever crossed in one day.
We carried on to the tiny village of Sedbusk. Lunch was taken by a small stream and later we enjoyed a welcome drink at the Green Dragon pub at Hardraw village, before arriving late afternoon in Hawes. Diane
Day 3: Hawes to Keld
Sunday started bright but with a scatter of rain and by the time we were walking it was distinctly dull. The day began in the pastures west of Hawes down to Widdale Beck with a view of our destination, Great Shunner Fell. Pretty much the last view of the day! From there we began the climb, the weather going downhill as we climbed up. There should be great views from this high point of the walk (and indeed of the trip) but we walked in rain and mist to the 'shelter' at the top of the fell, where we huddled in waterproofs, glad of a warm drink. It was a relief to trudge down to Thwaite, leaving the worst of the weather at the top and seeing the countryside again. The last section before lunch was a tiring walk on a rough stony path and we were all glad to reach Thwaite, though we didn't know how glad we would be!
Sandwiches and snacks came out then a good proportion of the group made their way into the Kearton Hotel coffee shop. Bliss! Great excitement (how sad are our lives) to find the boot cover machine :pop your foot on top, press down and hey presto your muddy boot is covered with a blue 'shower cap'. The next excitement was possibly the best hot chocolate ever - so good some people had to go back again: you know who you are.
It wasn't easy to tear ourselves away from all this luxury, but there were hot showers at Keld, three miles up the hill and down into the dale, so when we couldn't find any more excuses to linger we gathered ourselves and began to climb. The afternoon brought slightly better weather and after a long uphill we crossed into the valley where Keld sits. A steady downhill brought us to the village where we stayed in a variety of accommodation, all of which was excellent. Most of us ate at Keld Lodge, formerly the YHA, with some speculation as to why the hostel closed at such a busy meeting of footpaths. Ralph and Diane
It wasn't easy to tear ourselves away from all this luxury, but there were hot showers at Keld, three miles up the hill and down into the dale, so when we couldn't find any more excuses to linger we gathered ourselves and began to climb. The afternoon brought slightly better weather and after a long uphill we crossed into the valley where Keld sits. A steady downhill brought us to the village where we stayed in a variety of accommodation, all of which was excellent. Most of us ate at Keld Lodge, formerly the YHA, with some speculation as to why the hostel closed at such a busy meeting of footpaths. Ralph and Diane
Day 4: Keld to Grinton
The promised rain held off today as we set off on the final leg back to our starting point. It was a day of industrial heritage and quite different from the green rolling hills and valleys of the dales we'd seen on other days. Initially we followed green, pretty river paths but soon climbed steadily past ruined lead mine buildings, where little vegetation other than mountain pansies grew on the contaminated soil. We had elevenses in the shelter of a ruined peat store that once had held the fuel for the lead-smelting mills. Onwards, and very steeply upwards, we plateau'd the gravelly desolation of Gunnerside Gill. Here the wind was gusting strongly at our backs as, in the mist, cloud vapour whipped past us. It was a place to cross as quickly as possible, believe me! We steadily descended along the Old Gang Beck past more smelting mills and emerged into the village of Heelaugh then on to Fremington and finally Grinton. I think we were all glad to see the Bridge Inn! A celebration dinner at the Inn that evening let us relax and celebrate our achievement of 56 miles in 4our days – and all thanks to SAR. Jo
The promised rain held off today as we set off on the final leg back to our starting point. It was a day of industrial heritage and quite different from the green rolling hills and valleys of the dales we'd seen on other days. Initially we followed green, pretty river paths but soon climbed steadily past ruined lead mine buildings, where little vegetation other than mountain pansies grew on the contaminated soil. We had elevenses in the shelter of a ruined peat store that once had held the fuel for the lead-smelting mills. Onwards, and very steeply upwards, we plateau'd the gravelly desolation of Gunnerside Gill. Here the wind was gusting strongly at our backs as, in the mist, cloud vapour whipped past us. It was a place to cross as quickly as possible, believe me! We steadily descended along the Old Gang Beck past more smelting mills and emerged into the village of Heelaugh then on to Fremington and finally Grinton. I think we were all glad to see the Bridge Inn! A celebration dinner at the Inn that evening let us relax and celebrate our achievement of 56 miles in 4our days – and all thanks to SAR. Jo
